Chikankari Kurti

Inception of Chikankari in India

The delicate and intricate art of Chikankari is one of India’s most famous hand embroidery styles. As the name suggests, it originated in Lucknow and adjoining areas of Uttar Pradesh. Chikankari is characterised by its white cotton or muslin base fabric, upon which white thread embroidery featuring floral, leafy, and other motifs is done. This white-on-white effect lends it a unique grace.

It is believed that elegant Chikankari embroidery came to India in the Mughal era. Historians think the earliest form of this stitchwork was influenced by Persian and Turkish needlework styles. Local Indian artisans adapted their techniques, giving birth to the Lucknowi Chikankari as we know it today.

• Chikankari was patronaged under the Awadh's Nawabs in the 18th century

• It flourished under the support of nawabs and their courtiers, who wore embroidered angarkha tunics made of fine muslin and cotton

• Skilled karigars (artisans) practised their art and continued to be sponsored by the royals

• The cities of Lucknow, Barabanki, Hardoi and Sitapur became hubs

While men marked out the patterns on cloth, women artisans used spike bones to embroider them with delicate herringbone, running, and Holbein stitches. Their work required tremendous focus—some even used a hollow bamboo stick against the fabric to stabilise their hands.

Chikankari grew to be celebrated globally - it remains the only embroidery created on sheer fabrics like muslin.

From nawab's angarkhas, its use expanded into personal clothing like:

• Chikankari kurtis with white or colourful dupattas for women

• Anarkali suits and long modal dresses with chikankari yokes

• Chikankari embroidery saris worn by brides as heirlooms

• Ornate lehengas with all-over zardozi and chickankari

The growth of modern fashion has also led to the adoption of chikankari work on fabrics like georgette, chiffon, and silk rather than just muslin. It is also being fused with other embroidery styles like zardozi, beads, mirrors, and tilla into contemporary bridalwear and occasionwear. Works are no longer defined by white-on-white—colourful threads are now being used to meet modern preferences.

However, the traditional chikankari embroidered kurta retains its classic appeal. It requires tremendous skill and labour intensiveness due to the delicate handling of fine threads and sheer base fabrics. Places like Lucknow continue to nurture skilled karigars who have practised the art for generations within artisan families. Their pursuit of chikankari makes it one of India’s most treasured hand-embroidery art forms. Though the designs and colours may evolve with time, the finesse of an authentic chikankari dress is unmatched!

Factors Contributing to the Rise of Chikankari Art in India

The exquisite hand embroidery art of Chikankari has seen a major revival in recent years. From a declining cottage craft, it has transformed into a flourishing industry associated with Indian craft heritage and textile luxury. Many key factors have enabled the phenomenal growth of the Lucknowi chikankari kurti for women on both national and global levels:

Revival Efforts: Concerted efforts by advocacy groups like the Uttar Pradesh government’s One District, One Product (ODOP) scheme have focused on nurturing karigars or artisans. Providing them with design and technical skills has helped Chikankari become competitive.

Online Ecommerce: A huge factor behind Chikankari’s booming popularity is the reach enabled by online retail platforms and websites. Sites like Amazon, Flipkart, Meesho and crafts platforms like Jaypore have taken signature pieces like Chikankari tops, kurtis and tunics into countless wardrobes:

• Accessibility across India has exposed millions to quality Chikankari work

• Specialised virtual stores give good margins to sellers and weavers

• Reviews and return policies have built customer trust

This table shows the rapid revenue growth from online Chikankari sales:

Fashion Trends: Chikankari expressions now go beyond ethnic wear into fusion dresses, crop tops, skirts, etc. Styling with denim, using colourful threads instead of just white and mixing it with block prints, batik or other embroidery has made it vogue. Brands regularly release Chikankari collections suited to seasonal fashion. Moreover, blending heritage with new trends has brought unprecedented growth, demand and economic empowerment for the exquisite craft of Chikankari!

Top Indian Cities Driving Demand for Chikankari Art

1. Lucknow – The Home of Chikankari

As the birthplace of the two-century-old embroidery, Lucknow continues to be the hub for Chikankari artisans and production. Most skilled karigars or craftspeople belong to villages and towns around the city. Lucknow stores sell the most extensive variety of Chikankari long kurti products and cater to locals and tourists.

2. Delhi NCR – Big Market for Apparel

Delhi NCR is the national capital region with a large, fashion-conscious population and good purchasing capacity. Many designers sell stylish Chikankari short kurti here through studios and online stores. From modish crop tops to fusion sarees, Delhi’s dynamic market has demand for innovative Chikankari styles beyond the classic kurtas and salwar suits.

3. Mumbai – India’s Fashion Capital

Mumbai city signifies style - Bollywood glamour, fashion designers and media highlight the latest trends. The climatic warmth also makes light, breathable Chikankari fabrics more suitable. Flowy yellow Chikankari kurta embellished using diverse embroidery techniques resonate well with young working women and collegegoers here.

4. Kolkata - Traditional Apparel Market

Bengalis love their traditional designs, including intricate needlework. Hence, Kolkata offers a steady consumer market for Chikankari, be it reshma work or zardozi embellishments, along with white thread embroidery. Most preferences lean toward paithani pattern sarees, heavier bridal lehengas, and traditional salwar kameez styles in the Chikankari technique rather than Western ensembles.

Revenue Growth of Chikankari in India Over the Last Five Years

The beautiful and intricate art of Chikankari has seen a significant boost in popularity and sales over the past five years. This special white embroidery on fabrics like muslin, silk, and cotton using delicate stitches is a source of pride for India. But this skill took time and effort. So clothes with hand-made Chikankari used to be expensive and bought only during weddings and festivals.

But between 2017 and 2021, a lot of things changed for the good of this craft. Firstly, many Indian celebrities and politicians chose ethnic Chikankari kurtas and sarees for important events. A lot of common people were inspired to buy similar outfits because of this. Photos and videos spread fast on social media, which increased the buzz. Even top global fashion brands showcased the beauty of Chikankari in their collections.

Secondly, the Indian government offered special training and small business loans, which helped more people learn this art and set up their labels. Moreover, the young girls and boys in small towns got employment closer to home, and their families could earn more income because of the rising demand. 

Lastly, online shopping websites and apps made it possible for small-town sellers to access buyers across India. With that being said, the customers from cities could also place customised orders and pay digitally.

This table shows the rapid revenue growth from online Chikankari sales:

An Overview of Chikankari Kurti

The Chikankari kurti is one of the most popular garments featuring delicate Lucknowi embroidery. It comprises a short collarless shirt, tunic or top worn by women across India.

Fabric: Traditionally done on soft muslin or cotton fabrics, Chikankari work now extends to flowy georgette, chiffon and silks for a contemporary touch. While white on white looks classic, pastel colours like lemon yellow, pink and beige are also used.

Silhouette: Straight fit Anarkali Kurtis, calf-length tops with side slits, short round embellished kurtis – all styles are common as per changing trends. The royals historically favoured work-intensive flared kurtas.

Embroidery: Delicate threadwork using chain, Bakhiya, and jaali stitches lends ornamentation without overpowering the base fabric. Motifs are classically floral, like roses, leaves, creepers, and kalga motifs. Modern variations also feature paisleys, birds, geometric prints, etc.

Necklines: The most common necklines, including round, square, V-shaped, boat, and mandarin necklines, are beautifully offset with distinct Chikankari stitches on the yoke. Some kurtas may have lace or embroidered panels.

Sleeves: Full, 3/4th, short, puffed, frilled, or cap sleeves suit the embroidered composition on Kurtis. 

Colourways: Soft fabrics suit white, pastels like blush pink, lemon yellow, or beige shades. Darker hues like black, red, blue, or green Chikankari kurtas also make bold statements when worked on matte silk or cotton.

Pairing it with slim-fit churidars, leggings, or skirts complements the kurti’s flare. Gossamer dupattas can lift the look for occasions. Chikankari embroidered kurta, hence, are versatile Indian ethnic wear, suitable for daily wear as well as wedding wear, and are made of cooling, breathable fabrics.

The Intricate Process Behind Making a Chikankari Kurta

The art of Chikankari involves the most delicate and artistic hand embroidery done chiefly on cotton or muslin kurtas and dupattas. This craft, perfected by generations of artisans, requires tremendous skill and labour. Here is the step-by-step process followed for creating beautiful chikankari kurti for women:

1. Fabric Selection

The base fabric is vital to sustaining the fine embroidery. Traditionally, soft, sheer, and lightweight Indian muslins like tanchoi, mulmul, or malmal were used so that the intricate needlework was clearly visible. Now, even fabrics like cotton, voile, cambric, silk, or handloom are chosen to design chikankari kurtas and suits.

2. Pattern Making

Earlier, the main designer would guide the pattern master or naqash in drawing out the figured motifs to be embroidered on paper. Today, computerised design software is also used along with hand-drawn crafts. Floral vines, leaves, blooms, kalga, concentric circles, etc., are most commonly seen.

3. Block Stamping

The patterns are then perforated along the marked outlines using tiny spikes. These perforated motif outlines are manually directly stamped onto the fabric using wood blocks etched with tiny metal pins. Skilful blocking masters transfer the patterns accurately onto yards of the base fabric.

4. Embroidery Stitching

Once the motif blocks are stamped, clusters of highly skilled women artisans begin the painstaking hand embroidery involving special stitches like taichi, pika, panda, murri and more. No knots are used - only alternating reverse stitches in perfectly uniform tension with fine white thread. Tiny “kasheeda” needles pierced into the fabric follow marked patterns to create ornamented white-on-white designs. Meticulous care separates chikankari artistry from regular machine-made embroidery.

5. Washing

Once initial work is complete on marked fabrics, they are mildly bleached to enhance the white-on-white effect. The fabric is then washed to remove block imprint outlines, and light starches are sometimes applied to it to stiffen it.

6. Cutting and Stitching

The base fabric yardage is then cut and tailored into kurta silhouettes or salwar suits as per patterns. Trendy fits, necklines and sleeve styles are used for modern chikankari garments. Side slits, gathers or frills may be part of the style vision.

7. Accessory Embellishing

Some designer Chikankari embroidered kurta may feature added surface ornamentation like handwoven trims, delicate mirror-work, sequins or beads on the yoke, sleeves or hemlines. Such embellishing lends a celebratory look for festive garments while retaining the authentic Chikankari identity.

8. Finishing

The final stages involve cleaning, pressing, and finishing. Each perfectly crafted chikankari garment goes through multiple quality inspections before leaving for the stores. Though production happens locally, signature pieces travel far across India and overseas, too!

So, the end-to-end making of chikankari short kurti requires almost 10-12 skilled hands working in harmony to translate the designer's vision into bespoke pieces. Their collective family wisdom, individual acumen, and tireless enterprise transform plain fabric into an exquisite ensemble within weeks.

Stitches Used in Chikankari Tops

Fabrics Best Suited for Chikankari Kurti

Choosing the right textile is key to enhance the gorgeous patterns crafted using delicate stitches. Here are the best materials for Chikankari kurtas and tops:

Cotton Fabrics

• Soft muslins like Dhaka mulmul, tanchoi and malmal finely woven using high quality cotton threads are traditionally used. Their sheerness helps clearly see through to minute embroidery details.

• Premium cotton materials like cambric, voile and organic fabrics nicely hold the shape and fall of Chikankari garments with great drapes.

• Pastel shades also suit classic white embroidery well instead of stark whites.

Chiffon

• Gossamer finish chiffon makes stunning canvases for ornate floral Chikankari arrangements destined for sarees and evening gowns. The delicate base fabric weight matches detailed needlework.

• Its translucency spotlights all jaali, pechni and other embroidery elements along with their shadow work illusions.

• Hues like powder blue, pink and lemon yellow chiffon beautifully offset white stitching.

Georgette

• Georgette is perfect for flowy chikankari crop tops. Being slightly textured and shear, machine-printed motifs likely integrate better than handwork, which demands more drape.

• Kurtis in pastel georgette with sparsely placed embroidery is a huge market favourite because they combine comfort, fall, and embellishment.

Khadi Fabrics

• Superfine Khadi handloom cotton's signature textured look also prominently supports chikankari craftsmanship. The fabric gives body yet porosity for the needles.

• Designers often use brown, black or green khadi kurtas to allow brighter white stitch pop for fusion pieces.

Silk

• For luxurious collectibles like chikankari sarees, silk is the ultimate investment. The satin sheen, feeling and natural drape elevate detailed craftsmanship.

Summer's Hottest Colours for Chikankari Kurtis

1. Serene Blue Chikankari Kurta

The hottest colour for Chikankari kurtis this summer is serene shades of blue. Powder blue Chikankari Kurta with all-over white jaali embroidery makes for an effortlessly smart daytime look. The soft pastel colour with sparsely placed intricate needlework lets breezy air through, making it relaxing summer office wear. 

2. Vibrant Yellow Chikankari Kurta

Yellow is traditionally associated with auspiciousness in Indian culture, making it perfect for summer's cheer. A crisp lemon yellow Chikankari cotton kurta with minimal white stitch accents makes a happy daytime choice. 

3. Calming Green Chikankari Kurta

Another eternally summery colour, green provides a soothing base canvas for the white thread playfulness of Chikankari accents - since most patterns traditionally feature leaves and creepers. For eco-conscious events, adorning forest green Khadi linen kurtis with Chikankari bursts on pockets makes a cool statement.

4. Black Chikankari Kurta

For those who wish to experiment beyond traditional pastel palettes for Chikankari, black makes a sophisticated choice for an evening kurta. Black Chikankari Kurta can be styled with slim white salwars for cocktails or reception events for a smartly unconventional look.

5. Pink Chikankari Kurta

Pink spells indulgent femininity and is super vogue in Indian festive wear. Chikankari embroidery detailing paired with gold zardozi and sequins along the placket of a fuchsia anarkali kurta also makes a glamorously laidback option for mehendi nights or roka ceremonies.

5 Ways to Style Chikankari Kurti

1. Pair with Palazzo Pants

Palazzo pants look gorgeous when paired with Chikankari kurtis. The flair of the pants complements the flair of the kurta beautifully. You can opt for flowy palazzos made of silk or chiffon in a solid colour like turquoise blue, pink or maroon to match a chikankari embroidered kurta.

2. Combine with Skinny Jeans

One way to style Chikankari kurtis fashionably is by teaming them with skinny jeans. This gives a modern twist to the ethnic kurta. For example, you can wear a pristine white Chikankari cotton kurti with sparse but striking white leafy embroidery along the neckline above a pair of well-fitted dark blue denim jeans. This effortless combination works well for casual daytime outings with friends.

3. Accessorise with Statement Jewellery

You can beautifully elevate traditional long Chikankari kurtas ornamented with delicate threadwork by pairing them with eye-catching jewellery pieces like waist belts, long necklaces, and chunky bracelets. Go for classic Polki and Kundan sets with colourful stones, pearls, and beads to contrast with the subtle white-on-white subtle embroidery of your pastel yellow or pink kurta and salwar.

4. Layer with Denim Jackets

If you wish to add a relaxed vibe to your daily Chikankari kurtas, try layering them with casual denim jackets in fun colours to create an informal fusion look. The denim trucker jackets inject free-spirited Indo-western inspiration while the breezy volume of long flared beige kurtas peeping underneath makes it street-style friendly.

5. Pair with Long Flowy Skirts

To create dreamy ethnic ensembles for occasions, beautifully team prestigious Chikankari kurtas embellished using intricate stitches and patterns with subtly coloured flowy long skirts. The floaty cut will complement the luxurious needlework on the necklines, yokes, and sleeves of your kurta.

Bollywood’s Love for Chikankari Kurti

The delicate beauty of Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery has adorned Bollywood divas onscreen in many memorable movies. Its artisanal allure aptly complements Indian ethnic fashion depicted in films.

Jab We Met

Kareena Kapoor Khan portrayed the effervescent Geet in a brightly hued short kurti with dense Chikankari trims along the neck, hem, and cuffs in cheerful marigold yellow. This well depicted her lively small-town girl character.

Raazi

Alia Bhatt looked picture perfect in elegant Chikankari kurtis as the simple yet brave Sehmat in Raazi, set in the 1970s backdrop. She was seen in fine pastel-hued cotton and muslin kurtas ornamented with intricate threadwork to bring out old-world charm. The neutral kurtis aided her character's disguises during spy missions by blending in easily.

Guru

Aishwarya Rai Bachchan portrayed the role of Sujata in the period drama Guru, wearing breezy printed mulmul kurtas highlighted with sparse yet striking opaque zardozi and Chikankari accents. The subtle embroidery balanced the relaxed silhouettes mirroring the 1950s middle class aesthetics.

Kalank

Madhuri Dixit Nene was seen gracefully draped in rich Varanasi silk langa varkali sets featuring intricately crafted Chikankari motifs scattered across the yoke and sleeves in the song 'Tabah Ho Gaye'. The embroidered ensemble complimented her graceful dance moves during the mujra performance.

Bajirao Mastani

Deepika Padukone was embellished in a scene wearing an ornate peach Chikankari angarkha worn over champagne pink Raw silk salwars featuring all over bootis as Mastani showcasing the fine nawabi influence.

So, from small-town girl next door looks to aristocratic royalty, Chikankari talent has been prominently handcrafted into movie ensembles with designers customising looks to characters for greater authenticity. Our Bollywood divas shine brighter when adorned in revived artworks symbolic of India's rare textile tradition!